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How to Gather Ballistics Data for Long-Range Shooting
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How to Gather Ballistics Data for Long-Range Shooting How to Gather Ballistics Data for Long-Range Shooting Congratulations! You’ve just purchased a new rifle along with a fresh optic. Now you’re keen to stretch your legs and shoot at longer distances. But before you start dialling for windage and elevation, there's an important process that needs to take place: collecting accurate ballistic data. This step is vital for ensuring consistent and precise long-range performance. Assuming your rifle and scope are correctly mounted, it’s time to dive into the essentials of data collection. This groundwork lays the foundation for successful long-range shooting. Step One: Measuring Height Over Bore One of the first measurements you’ll need is the height over bore. This is the vertical distance between the centre of your rifle’s barrel and the centre of the objective of your scope. Accurate measurement here is essential, as even small discrepancies can affect your ballistic calculations. To measure it, begin by determining the external diameter of your barrel directly beneath the scope’s objective lens. Halve this figure to find the centre of the bore. Next, measure the diameter of your scope’s objective lens and divide that number by two to identify the midpoint of the optic. Then, measure the physical distance between the top of the barrel and the bottom of the objective lens. Once you’ve taken these three measurements, simply add them together. The result is your scope’s height over bore - a crucial figure for your ballistic software. Step Two: Ammunition and Projectile Data Once the height over bore has been calculated, it’s time to gather data on your ammunition and projectile. This includes details such as ballistic coefficient (BC), muzzle velocity, bullet weight in grains, and the drag model. The ballistic coefficient measures how efficiently a bullet overcomes air resistance. It’s usually listed on the projectile box or can be found on the manufacturer’s website - companies like Hornady, Sierra, Lapua, and Federal all publish this information. A higher BC will mean the projectile experiences less drag and slows down less due to less air resistance, leading to a flatter trajectory and less wind deflection Next, you’ll want to find your bullet’s muzzle velocity. The most accurate way to do this is by using a chronograph, such as the Garmin Xero C1 or the newer Athlon Rangecraft. While factory ammunition typically lists an estimated velocity on the box, these figures are only truly accurate for the rifle used during testing. In practice, your own results may vary - for example, a box might claim 2,600 feet per second, but testing with your rifle could reveal a velocity closer to 2,700 feet per second. Determining bullet weight is fortunately, much simpler. Just check the box your ammunition or projectiles came in. Common examples include 55 grains, 62 grains, 168 grains, and so on - the figure will always be listed. As for the drag model, this refers to the method used to define how air resistance affects the bullet’s flight. You’ll often encounter terms like G1 and G7. G1 is more widely used and applies to projectiles with a blunt-nose design, whereas G7 is designed for more aerodynamic, low-drag bullets, typically featuring boat-tail profiles. When entering your ballistic coefficient into a calculator, it’s critical to select the correct drag model to avoid inaccuracies. For example, the Sierra 30 CAL 155 GR HPBT MatchKing has two BC values: 0.450 for G1 and 0.221 for G7. Selecting the correct one ensures your data stays precise. Step Three: Recording Environmental Conditions Next, you’ll need to account for the atmosphere around you. Environmental factors can have a substantial impact on your bullet’s trajectory and must be recorded as close to your shooting time and location as possible. Important variables include wind speed and direction, air temperature, barometric pressure, altitude, and humidity. The most effective way to gather this information is by using a Kestrel weather meter. These devices provide real-time atmospheric data and are incredibly helpful for serious shooters. If you don’t have access to one, you can use local weather services to obtain temperature, pressure, and humidity, but you’ll likely find yourself guessing wind and altitude, the same way Crocodile Dundee guesses the time. Step Four: Using a Ballistic Calculator Now that you’ve gathered your rifle, ammunition, and environmental data, it’s time to enter everything into a ballistic calculator. This will generate your firing solutions and help you make the necessary scope adjustments at various distances. There are several options available. Hornady and Federal both offer free online calculators, which are user-friendly and accurate for most purposes. For those seeking greater customisation and long-term use, the Applied Ballistics app is a premium tool that allows you to save multiple rifle and ammo profiles. When inputting your data, make sure you’re using the correct units. Always check whether the calculator is asking for feet or metres, feet per second or metres per second, inches or millimetres. Mixing up these measurements is a common mistake that can lead to significant errors in your dope chart. It’s also worth noting that some data, like your bullet’s ballistic coefficient and weight, will stay the same every time. However, environmental data and muzzle velocity can change depending on conditions, so it’s important to update these figures each time you shoot. Final Step: Generating Your Ballistic Chart Once all your information has been entered, your ballistic calculator will generate a data sheet or drop chart. This document outlines the adjustments needed to compensate for bullet drop and wind drift at different distances. It might feel like a lot of effort up front, but this process ensures that your shooting is informed, repeatable, and accurate. With your data sorted and your dope dialled in, you’re now ready to enjoy long-range shooting with confidence and consistency. In Summary Ballistics data collection might seem complex at first, but it’s a crucial part of becoming a competent long-range shooter. The more precise your inputs, the better your results downrange. So, take your time, be thorough, and above all else - enjoy the journey. Now that the hard work is done... Happy shooting - and may your groups stay tight!   READ ARTICLE
The Ultimate Guide to Choosing the Right Binoculars
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The Ultimate Guide to Choosing the Right Binoculars The Ultimate Guide to Choosing the Right Binoculars Choosing the perfect binoculars requires a deep understanding of both your specific needs and the technical specifications that govern optical performance. The right pair can enhance your outdoor experience dramatically, but the wrong choice can lead to eye strain, frustration, and missed sightings. This guide will explore twelve crucial factors in extensive detail to ensure you’re fully equipped to make an informed decision. Set a Budget First Before exploring the myriad of features, setting a realistic budget is essential. Binoculars span a huge price range - from budget-friendly models under £100 to ultra-premium optics costing several thousand. Why such a disparity? It comes down to the quality of optical glass, precision engineering, durable materials, advanced coatings, and brand reputation. For example, entry-level binoculars often use standard optical glass and basic coatings, which can result in images that lack sharpness, have chromatic aberration, and have lower brightness. In contrast, top-tier models incorporate high-grade extra-low dispersion (ED) glass, multi-layer coatings on every lens surface, and superior mechanical build quality, ensuring decades of reliable use. If your budget is limited, focus on maximising value by prioritising optical quality and durability over gimmicky features. Many mid-range binoculars deliver excellent performance if matched correctly to your activity. Conversely, if you hunt or birdwatch professionally, investing in premium glass can be justified by the difference in image quality and comfort over long sessions. Choose the Right Magnification Magnification defines how many times closer an object appears compared to the naked eye and directly impacts how much detail you can discern. But higher magnification doesn’t automatically mean better viewing - it comes with trade-offs. At 8x to 10x, binoculars provide a wide field of view with good image stability, which is essential for scanning wide-open landscapes or tracking fast-moving wildlife. These powers are well-suited for birdwatching, general hiking, and hunting, where you need both detail and field of view. Binoculars with magnifications between 12x and 15x offer greater reach for glassing long distances in open country. However, at this level, images become more sensitive to hand shake, which can cause eye fatigue. These require a steady hand or tripod support, especially on uneven terrain. Magnifications above 15x are often impractical without stabilisation because small vibrations are magnified, blurring the image. For instance, spotting scopes with tripods are preferred over high-magnification binoculars in such cases, unless you’re using image-stabilised models. This is why the majority of hunters and birders stay within 8x to 12x for the best balance of power, clarity, and ease of use. Understand Objective Lens Size The objective lens size, the diameter of the front lenses in millimetres, is a primary factor influencing light-gathering capacity and, consequently, image brightness and clarity, especially in low-light environments like dawn or dusk. A 42mm objective lens diameter is the most common because it strikes a balance between brightness and portability. Larger objectives like 50mm or 56mm lenses are favoured by users who often hunt or observe in twilight conditions because they gather more light, rendering images brighter and more detailed. However, bigger lenses also add bulk and weight, which can become cumbersome on extended hikes or when packing light. Furthermore, larger lenses typically increase the binocular’s overall size, making them more difficult to handle and store.  Additionally, larger objective lenses increase the exit pupil (the size of the beam of light leaving the binoculars), improving the image brightness seen by your eyes, which is critical for low-light performance. For instance, a 10×50 binocular has an exit pupil of 5mm, matching well with the human eye’s dilation in low light, producing a brighter image than a 10×42 model. Prioritise Image Resolution Resolution refers to the binocular’s ability to distinguish fine detail and is arguably the most critical aspect of optical quality. High resolution lets you differentiate textures like the fine scales on a bird’s feathers or the individual hairs on an animal’s coat at a distance. Several factors influence resolution: - Glass Quality: Premium ED (Extra-low Dispersion) and HD (High Density) glass minimise light scattering, improving clarity.- Lens Precision: The grinding and polishing process must be exact to avoid distortions.- Internal Alignment: Optics must be perfectly aligned to prevent double images or eye strain.- Coatings: Multi-layer anti-reflective coatings boost light transmission and contrast, sharpening the image. In the field, superior resolution means faster target identification and more confidence in your observations. For instance, being able to tell a mature mule deer buck apart from a spike is often about discerning subtle differences in antler shape and body size, which poor resolution might mask. Consider Edge-to-Edge Clarity Edge-to-edge clarity measures how sharp the image remains from the centre out to the very edges of the field of view. Many binoculars provide excellent sharpness in the centre but suffer from soft, blurry edges, a common problem with budget and mid-range optics. This matters because your eyes don’t fixate on a single spot - they constantly scan across the entire view to pick up movement or spot wildlife at the periphery. Blurry edges can reduce your ability to detect subtle motion or details, leading to missed sightings. Edge softness is caused by optical aberrations like field curvature and astigmatism, which high-end binoculars correct through advanced lens design and precision engineering. For example, the Zeiss Victory SF and Swarovski NL Pure models use aspherical lenses and optimised prism systems to maintain consistent clarity across the entire viewing field, reducing eye fatigue and enhancing the detection of wildlife. Look Out for Chromatic Aberration Chromatic aberration results from different wavelengths of light focusing at different points after passing through lenses, creating colored halos or fringes, typically purple, green, or blue, around high-contrast edges. This effect can be distracting and reduce the perceived sharpness and contrast of the image, complicating the identification of distant targets. It’s most apparent when viewing dark objects against bright backgrounds, like tree branches against a bright sky. To combat this, many high-end binoculars use ED (extra-low dispersion) or fluorite glass elements, which greatly reduce chromatic aberration by aligning the focal points of different colours more precisely. Lens coatings also play a crucial role in minimising colour fringing and increasing overall image fidelity. When testing binoculars, focus on high-contrast edges and look for colour fringing. Lower-quality optics often exhibit noticeable purple or blue halos, which can make identifying fine details frustrating, especially for serious birders or hunters. Factor in Field of View (FOV) The field of view is the width of the observable area through the binoculars, usually measured in feet at 1,000 yards or in degrees. A wider FOV lets you see more landscape at once, making it easier to scan and track moving subjects. For birdwatchers, a wide field of view is vital to follow fast, erratic flight patterns. For hunters, it’s essential when tracking animals moving quickly through dense cover or scanning large areas efficiently. The trade-off is that wider fields often come with slightly reduced magnification or edge sharpness in lower-end models. However, premium optics often deliver both wide fields and high resolution simultaneously. For example, an 8×42 binocular with a 420-foot FOV at 1,000 yards offers a large panoramic view, while a 10×42 might have a narrower FOV of around 330 feet. Your choice depends on your primary application: wide FOV for rapid scanning, narrower for detailed inspection. Evaluate Low Light Performance Low light performance is crucial for dawn, dusk, or shaded conditions common in forested environments. It depends primarily on: - Exit Pupil: Larger exit pupils (objective diameter ÷ magnification) allow more light into your eyes. For example, 8×42 binoculars have an exit pupil of 5.25mm, excellent for low light. In contrast, 10×32 binoculars have an exit pupil of just 3.2mm, making them less suitable when light fades.- Glass Quality and Coatings: High transmission rates (above 90%) ensure more light passes through the lenses, improving brightness and contrast.- Internal Lens Design: Minimises light scatter and internal reflections, which can wash out images in low light. Optical manufacturers continuously improve coatings, such as phase correction coatings on roof prisms, which preserve colour fidelity and contrast in twilight conditions. When possible, test your binoculars at dawn or dusk to compare brightness and contrast - two models that look similar in daylight can perform very differently as light dims. Eye Box Forgiveness Eye box forgiveness refers to how much you can move your eyes relative to the eyepiece and still see a full, clear image without blackout or vignetting. A large, forgiving eye box is vital for users who wear glasses or for anyone who frequently adjusts their viewing angle, such as when shifting body positions in uneven terrain or while moving quickly. Long eye relief (distance from the eyepiece where your eye can see the full field) combined with a generous eye box provides comfortable viewing and reduces eye strain. Glasses wearers especially need eye relief around 15mm or more to avoid cropping of the view. Some binoculars sacrifice eye box size to achieve compactness or weight savings, which might not be ideal if you plan extended viewing sessions. Consider Size and Weight Weight and size directly impact portability and comfort. Heavier binoculars cause arm fatigue during long glassing sessions and may require additional support like harnesses or tripods. Compact binoculars (e.g., 8×25, 10×25) are lightweight and fit in pockets but usually sacrifice brightness and image quality due to smaller objective lenses. Full-size models (8×42, 10×50) are heavier but offer superior optical performance and durability. When hunting or birding, many prefer models weighing 1.5 to 2 pounds as the sweet spot between comfort and performance. Materials like magnesium alloy and polycarbonate can reduce weight while maintaining ruggedness. Also, consider ergonomics: rubber coatings for grip and design contours for hand fit improve handling. Test Before You Buy (If Possible) No amount of research replaces firsthand experience. Trying binoculars in real-world conditions allows you to assess comfort, image quality, focus speed, and ease of use. Visit speciality stores, attend outdoor expos, or borrow from friends. Take binoculars outside in varied lighting to assess clarity, brightness, colour fidelity, and ergonomics. Check how easily you can adjust the focus wheel, how stable the image feels in your hands, and whether eye relief is comfortable for your face shape and eyewear needs. Keep in mind: your brain and eyes will adapt over time, but the initial feel of the binoculars is crucial for long-term satisfaction. Final Thoughts Selecting binoculars is a complex process that balances technical specifications, your outdoor environment, and personal preferences. Understanding the interplay between magnification, objective size, optical quality, and ergonomics ensures you invest in optics that enhance your experience and reduce fatigue. Prioritise features like resolution, low-light capability, and field of view first, then consider comfort and portability. When in doubt, test multiple models side-by-side and trust your eyes. The right binoculars don’t just help you see better - they transform your entire outdoor adventure into something unforgettable.   READ ARTICLE
The Best Japanese Glass under £500
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The Best Japanese Glass under £500 The Best Japanese Glass under £500 The Falcon T50i Plus 5–50×60i ED MOA rifle scope is a purpose-built optic that offers serious performance for shooters engaged in disciplines such as field target, benchrest, long-range target, and F-Class shooting. With a powerful 10× zoom factor and high-grade components, this scope delivers outstanding optical and mechanical precision, all while offering remarkable value for money. At the heart of the T50i Plus is its use of ED (Extra-Low Dispersion) glass elements, combined with high-quality Hoya Japanese glass, which produces stunning clarity, excellent colour rendition, and fine detail resolution across the entire magnification range. These optical enhancements provide a distinct advantage when reading mirage, estimating range, or resolving small targets at extended distances. The glass-etched E‑CDi MOA reticle features a floating 0.2 MOA illuminated centre dot, aiding precision shot placement and visibility in varying light conditions. Being in the second focal plane, the reticle remains a constant size regardless of zoom level, making it ideal for precision target work. Mechanically, the scope is built around a robust 34 mm one-piece tube, providing ample internal adjustment range and a rock-solid platform for long-range shooting. The turrets are tactile, crisp, and track with 1/8 MOA adjustments and 10 MOA per revolution. The elevation turret offers +70 MOA of adjustment, more than enough for most extreme long-range applications. A particular highlight is the easy-to-use zero-stop system, which is both durable and intuitive, allowing shooters to return to their baseline without guesswork or accidental over-rotation. Another standout feature is the scope’s side parallax adjustment, which ranges from 10 meters to infinity. The focus wheel is snappy and responsive, making it exceptionally useful for field target shooting, where accurate range finding is critical. At the same time, the generous field of view - ranging from 24.8 ft at 5× to 2.52 ft at 50× - offers flexibility for both wide-scope awareness and tight aiming on distant targets. The Falcon T50i Plus is engineered to endure real-world use. It’s nitrogen-purged, shockproof, and waterproof, capable of handling the recoil of powerful calibers like .338 Lapua Magnum and even .50 BMG, as well as high-power spring-piston air rifles. It ships with a global no-time-limit warranty, underlining Falcon’s confidence in their product and commitment to long-term support. Where the T50i Plus really shines is in its versatility. It’s ideally suited for benchrest, thanks to its ultra-fine adjustment and clean reticle design. It’s equally effective for field target shooting, with its crisp focus and ED optics helping competitors estimate distance accurately and confidently. Long-range shooters and F-Class competitors will appreciate the precision turret tracking, generous elevation range, and reliable zero stop - features that usually command a much higher price in competing scopes. In conclusion, the Falcon T50i Plus 5–50×60i ED MOA scope delivers a level of performance and build quality that belies its price tag. Whether you're targeting sub-MOA groups at long range, zeroing in on 15 mm kills in FT, or competing at a national level, this scope gives you the clarity, tracking reliability, and adjustability needed to compete with the best. For shooters seeking premium features at a reasonable cost, this scope is one of the smartest investments currently available on the optics market. READ ARTICLE
From Australia to OPW: Nathan’s Guide to Picking the Perfect Optic
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From Australia to OPW: Nathan’s Guide to Picking the Perfect Optic Introduction to Nathan G'day guys. My name is Nathan, and I'm a recent import here for Optics Warehouse. I'm originally from Australia, and I've been shooting since I was about six years old. I started on air rifles and 22LR when I was young and worked my way up to large calibre centrefire rifles and just about everything in between. I've been in the shooting industry for the last 6 years and have primarily done hunting and long-range targets. Over the years, I've owned many different rifles, everything from Ruger M77 223, Winchester 99/22WMR, Marlin 336 and like 3 Remington 700 rifles, all the way to M40A3, custom-built 338Lapua and 300PRC rifles, Accuracy International AT, 3 Barrett Mrad rifles, that's just to name a few. Shooting has been a steady part of my life since I was young, and it's not looking to change.  With all these rifles, I've had to choose the perfect optic to match the shooting style of that rifle.  Target rifles: With all of my target rifles, I have chosen rifle scopes with an increased magnification range, a Crosshair designed for long-distance shooting, lockable turrets, and large amounts of adjustment so I can dial those longer shots. I prefer approximately 3-18 and 5-25 magnification because it allows me to zoom in and see targets up to 1000m and beyond, but also allows me to zoom out for close-in targets, which would be difficult to find quickly on higher magnification. Magnification similar to this, such as the Delta Optics 4.5-30, is also a great choice as it allows for longer engagements but also close-in shooting. With the reticles, I either prefer a Christmas tree style as seen in the Vortex Strike Eagle and the Arken EP5, or a simpler crosshair with MRAD subtensions such as the P5FL from Schmidt and Bender or PR-1 Mil from Leupold. Lockable turrets have always been a mainstay in my Target rifles because the rifles can get moved around and bumped a lot, and I don't want turrets moving when I don't want them to and shifting my point of impact. Having the most amount of adjustment I can within my price point has always been a selling point for me, as longer distance shots require more elevation, but also, with a circular tube and linear adjustments, you won't be able to dial your max windage and elevation at the same time. For example, if you imagine the square box is the amount of adjustment each erector system can move in a straight line, and the circle is the limitations of the tube design limiting the amount of adjustment possible. With this little diagram, the circle represents the tube and the amount of adjustment possible, which is limited by the tube design. The box represents the amount of adjustment possible by the erector system in the scope itself. Having a larger tube will allow you to have more field of adjustment in the scope itself rather than just in the turrets.  My set-ups with these features in the past have included my Accuracy International, M40A3, 338Lapua and my Barretts. Vortex Strike eagle 5-25x56 MRAD (Accuracy International), Leupold Mark 5HD PR-1 MRAD 5-25x56 (Barrett), Vortex Strike eagle 3-18x44 MRAD (M40A3), Nightforce NXS 5.5-22x56 (338Lapua) Hunting Rifles: The optics on my hunting rifles have been markedly different from my target scopes. Key features I look for in a hunting scope are lightweight, lower power, good light transmission for dusk and dawn, reliability and simple, easy-to-use reticles. When considering a hunting scope, the weight is a very large deciding factor, as you do not want to lug a scope which weighs a kilogram up and down a hill when you don't need to. Lightweight scopes such as the Vortex Razor LHT and the Schmidt and Bender Klassik line offer great performance out of a lightweight package.  Lower power scopes (in my opinion) are great for hunting as they will allow you to still see the target, but they will also offer a larger field of view than a high magnification scope, as well as mitigating the shooter from developing tunnel vision on the animal. Light transmission is an important factor to consider when thinking about shooting in dusk and dawn conditions, as you will have a hard time seeing through the scope and identifying the animal clearly if the scope has poor light transmission. Factors affecting this are the objective lens size (Larger objective = larger amount of light), glass quality and Lens coating. Some of the best brands in rifle scopes for light transmission that I have used are Vortex (Razor line) and Schmidt and Bender.  Reliability is one of the greatest requirements in any scope, let alone a hunting scope, as without a durable and reliable scope, the chance of wounding or missing an animal is greater, and this can ruin your hunt and potentially cause an animal distress.  When hunting, simpler reticles I find are a bit easier when hunting because they allow you to see the animal a bit clearer without a large target reticle in the way, obscuring your vision, but also a lot of hunting reticles are designed with simple hold-overs in them. The duplex reticle is one of the most popular reticles worldwide for hunting as it allows quick target acquisition. One of my favourite reticles is the Vortex Razor G4I reticle as the holdovers for that reticle are true at 15 power and will allow most intermediate calibres (308, 6.5creed, 6.5swede, 30-06) to shoot out to 500m without having to do any calculations, just know the distance, hold for that distance on the reticle and fire. This scope allowed me to shoot a Wild Pig at 440m without any ballistic calculator.  Vortex Razor LHT 3-15x50 G4i MRAD on my Custom Remington 6.5x55.  When you choose the right optic for your rifle and purpose, then you can really have some fun, whether that be vermin control at closer distances or target shooting out long distances. I prefer long distance myself, and there is no greater feeling than firing and hearing the ding from the steel plate a few seconds later. This shot I took with my 300PRC Barrett MRAD with a Leupold MK5 5-25x56 at 1000m, it was one of the best days I have had shooting. Optics selection can be a difficult choice to make when all the options are laid out, but deciding on what features you need will make it a simpler choice for you. If you have any questions or even just want to hear a funny accent, please don't hesitate to reach out. READ ARTICLE
Wulf Defender 2.0 ED 5-25x56 Rifle Scope Review
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Wulf Defender 2.0 ED 5-25x56 Rifle Scope Review Original Review: Chris Parkin Shooting Sports on Youtube The Wulf Defender 2.0 ED 5-25x56 is built for shooters who want serious performance without paying premium brand prices. If you’re looking to push your shots out past 300 metres and need something that tracks well, stays sharp and won’t fall apart under recoil, this scope might just be worth a closer look. At first glance, it’s clear Wulf have designed this optic with precision shooting in mind. You get a solid 34mm main tube machined from 6061T6 aluminium, giving you generous internal adjustment and a good balance of strength and weight. The anodised finish is clean and functional, just what you want in a practical field scope. Optically, the scope holds its own. The 56mm objective lens is larger than standard, pulling in extra light for clearer images—especially handy in low-light conditions. Add in fully multi-coated ED glass, and you’re getting impressive brightness and colour clarity across the zoom range. It’s a first focal plane setup, so your reticle stays consistent as you zoom, and it matches up exactly with the turret clicks—great for holding over or making fast adjustments on the fly. Speaking of turrets, they’re one of the standout features here. Big, tactile and easy to read, each click moves the reticle by 0.1 MRAD. You get 12 MRAD per full turn, and up to 34.9 MRAD total travel on elevation, which is plenty for long-range work. The zero-stop system on the elevation turret is clean and reliable, letting you dial back to zero without overshooting. Both turrets use a lift-to-adjust lock mechanism, so no accidental bumps in the field. The parallax adjustment is spot on too, ranging from 20 metres to infinity, which makes this scope just as suitable for rimfire as it is for centrefire rifles. Zoom is controlled via a smooth magnification ring with solid end stops, and the throw lever compatibility means quick changes won’t knock your setup out of alignment. In terms of user comfort, eye relief sits between 88mm and 92mm, making it adaptable to most shooting platforms without compromising your cheek weld. The eye box is forgiving, allowing for natural head movement while keeping the reticle in view. A fast-focus eyepiece with a locking ring means once it’s dialled in, it stays there. Out in the field, this scope performs where it matters. It’s bright, clear and tracks consistently, with no image shift, tunnelling or mushy clicks. Tested on a .22LR for target work, it held zero and dialled perfectly through repeat sessions. No fogging, no drift and no surprises. At a price point of around £449, it competes well with scopes that cost significantly more. Throw in a 100mm sunshade, rubber lens caps and the peace of mind of the Wulf Titanium Warranty, and it’s a complete package. If you’re after a reliable long-range optic that won’t empty your wallet, the Wulf Defender 2.0 ED 5-25x56 is a very strong contender. It delivers practical, well-executed features without unnecessary gimmicks and proves that precision doesn’t have to come at a premium. Explore the Wulf Defender 2.0 ED and other optics in our range to find the right setup for your shooting needs.   SHOP WULF DEFENDER 2.0 HERE   READ ARTICLE