Illuminated Rifle Scopes Explained: Do You Really Need One?
Illuminated Rifle Scopes Explained: Do You Really Need One?
If you've spent any time behind a rifle, you’ve probably heard people talk about illuminated scopes — and maybe you’ve wondered if it’s just a gimmick or something worth having. Spoiler alert: it’s not just for show. Illumination on rifle scopes can make a huge difference, especially in low light conditions or when you're trying to get a clean shot on a dark target. In this guide, we’ll break down what illumination really is, why it matters, and when it actually comes in handy — no jargon, just straight talk.
What is Illumination?
In a rifle scope, illumination refers to the internal lighting of the reticle (crosshairs or aiming point) to make it more visible in low-light or dark conditions.This extra light helps you see the reticle clearly against dark targets or backgrounds (e.g., dense forests, dawn/dusk conditions).
What does it do?
Put simply, illumination in a rifle scope makes the reticle (the crosshairs or dot you aim with) light up, so it's easier to see—especially in low light, against dark backgrounds, or in the shade. Without it, a black reticle can blend right into your target, like a deer in the woods at dusk. Illumination makes the reticle stand out, so you don’t lose your aiming point. That means faster, more accurate shots, especially in close-range or fast-moving situations. When lighting is bad—early morning, late evening, or inside buildings—there’s often not enough contrast to see a plain black reticle. That’s where illumination comes in, giving you a brighter, clearer sight picture when you need it most.
Do I need an illuminated sight?
Whether you need an illuminated scope depends on how, where, and when you shoot. Here’s a breakdown to help you decide:
You could benefit from illumination if:
Early Morning or Late Evening Stalking
Roe deer, red deer, and wild boar are most active at dawn and dusk — exactly when light is weakest. In the UK and across Europe, legal shooting hours often include these low-light periods. An illuminated reticle ensures you can place your shot cleanly even in the dimmest light.
Woodland and Forest Hunting
Much of UK and European hunting takes place in dense woodland. Whether you're in the Scottish Highlands, French forests, or German woodlands, thick cover and deep shade can make it hard to pick out your reticle against a dark animal. Illumination cuts through the shadows.
Wild Boar at Night or in Low Light
In countries like Germany, Poland, and France, wild boar are a popular target — often hunted in poor light or even at night (where legal). Illuminated scopes help you stay accurate when the boar blend into the undergrowth or emerge under moonlight.
Overcast, Foggy, or Rainy Conditions
Let’s be honest — UK and European weather isn’t always ideal. Grey skies, mist, and drizzle are common, and they reduce contrast. A lit reticle can be the difference between a clear shot and guessing where your crosshair is.
Dark-Coated Game in Shaded Areas
Roe deer, fallow deer, and sika often blend into shaded woodland or hedge lines. A black reticle can vanish against them. Illumination helps you stay locked on even when the background is busy or dark.
Shooting from High Seats or Ground Blinds
Many European hunters use raised hides or high seats, especially for driven hunts or quiet stalking. These setups are often placed under tree cover or in shadows — and that dim light can hide your reticle. Illumination brings it back into view.
Winter Hunts and Snow-Covered Fields
In the Alps, Scandinavia, or even parts of the UK during winter, snow can create glare or low-contrast environments. A glowing reticle ensures your aiming point doesn’t get lost in the whiteout.
When would you not need illumination?
There are going to be some times when illumination might not be required for a few reason whether it is too bright or just not wanted by the individual shooter but let's go over a few.
Daytime Hunting in Good Light
If you're stalking during the middle of the day, under clear skies or bright overcast conditions, there's usually enough ambient light and contrast to see a standard black reticle without any trouble.
Open Farmland or Moorland
In open fields, moors, or upland areas — like parts of England, Wales, or the Scottish Highlands — there’s often plenty of light and fewer visual obstructions. A high-contrast background makes a traditional reticle easy to spot without illumination.
Hunting Light-Coloured or Contrasting Game
Some game animals, like fallow deer with lighter coats or animals in front of grassy or clear backdrops, provide enough contrast for a non-illuminated reticle to stand out clearly.
Using a Bold or High-Contrast Reticle Design
Scopes with thick posts, duplex-style reticles, or high-visibility markings (like black-and-white contrast or etched glass) can be very easy to see in most daylight conditions, making illumination redundant.
Long-Range Precision Shooting
For long-range shots taken under controlled conditions — for example, in daylight from a hide or shooting bench — shooters often prefer a fine, non-illuminated reticle to avoid any visual distraction or glare.
Preserving Battery Life or Simplifying Setup
Some hunters choose to leave illumination off during the day to conserve battery life, avoid fiddling with brightness settings, or just to keep things simple.
A good example where illumination would be helpful is:
With illumination, it becomes easier to see:
When you need illumination, or don't need illumination.
In conclusion, illuminated rifle scopes can be a real asset for hunting across the UK and Europe, especially in those tricky low-light moments — at dawn, dusk, in the woods, or when game blends into dark backgrounds. Whether you're stalking roe deer in thick woodland or waiting on wild boar from a high seat at night, having a glowing reticle helps you stay on target when visibility drops.
But that doesn’t mean illumination is always needed. In broad daylight, open landscapes, or with the right reticle design, you might not miss it at all. For many hunters, it’s just a tool — one you use when the conditions call for it, and ignore when they don’t.
At the end of the day, it comes down to how and where you hunt. Understanding when illumination helps — and when it’s not worth bothering with — means you can make the most of your scope without overcomplicating things. Like any good bit of kit, it’s all about using it wisely.
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Vortex Riflescope Product Overview
Vortex Riflescope Product Overview
Vortex Optics has built its reputation on delivering riflescopes that balance performance, durability, and value across a wide range of shooting applications. Whether you’re a first-time buyer looking for a dependable entry-level optic, a seasoned hunter seeking crystal-clear glass for early-morning shots, a tactical shooter demanding rapid target acquisition, or a precision competitor pushing the limits of long-range accuracy, Vortex offers a model line tailored to your needs. From the rugged affordability of the Crossfire II, through the refined hunting glass of the Diamondback series, to the versatile Venom and tactical-minded Strike Eagle, every scope is engineered to perform under real-world conditions. Stepping into the upper tiers, the Viper series blends advanced features with accessible pricing, the Golden Eagle HD caters to the most exacting competition shooters, and the Razor HD Gen III stands as the brand’s flagship, delivering elite-level optical clarity and precision for professionals and serious marksmen alike.
Crossfire II - Entry-Level Reliability and Value
The Crossfire II series delivers exceptional value for new shooters and budget-conscious hunters without cutting corners on durability. Available in a wide range of magnifications - from compact 1–4×24 models for fast handling, up to 6–24×50 AO for distance work - this line uses a one-piece aircraft-grade aluminium tube for strength and consistent alignment. Fully multi-coated optics ensure a bright, crisp image, while nitrogen purging and O-ring seals keep the scope waterproof, fogproof, and shockproof. Features like a fast-focus eyepiece, generous eye relief, resettable ¼ MOA capped turrets, and multiple reticle options (V-Plex or BDC) make it adaptable for a variety of shooting styles. Reviewers frequently praise its clarity and ruggedness at the price point, noting that while higher-end glass like the Diamondback offers more sharpness at extended ranges, the Crossfire II’s performance exceeds expectations for its class.
Diamondback & Diamondback HP - Affordable Optical Upgrade
Stepping up in image quality, the Diamondback line offers better glass, more precise mechanics, and a wider range of configurations - from versatile 1.75–5× models to high-magnification 6–24× options. Available in both SFP and FFP designs with 1″ or 30 mm tubes, and your choice of capped or exposed turrets, the Diamondback series caters to both hunters and target shooters. The Diamondback HP variant enhances performance further with XD extra-low dispersion glass, XR multi-coatings, and a side-focus/parallax adjustment for pinpoint long-range accuracy. This combination of optical quality, durability, and reasonable pricing makes it a favourite for those upgrading from entry-level scopes. Many shooters describe it as a “solid performer on a budget” that tracks and holds zero reliably, especially impressive for scopes under the £500 mark.
Venom - Affordable First Focal Plane Precision
The Venom line bridges the gap between mid-tier affordability and advanced FFP capability. Offered in configurations including 1–6×24 SFP, 3–15×44 FFP, and 5–25×56 FFP, these scopes use Vortex’s XD optical system, fully multi-coated lenses, and nitrogen-purged construction for bright, consistent performance in all weather. A standout feature is the RevStop™ Zero System, enabling fast and repeatable return-to-zero. Throw levers and advanced reticles like the EBR-7C (MOA or MRAD) enhance usability for both precision shooters and competition use. Widely regarded as “feature-packed at a great price,” the Venom delivers optical clarity and mechanical reliability well above its cost, even after extended field use and rigorous testing.
Strike Eagle - Tactical Versatility on a Budget
Positioned above the Diamondback and Crossfire in tactical capability, the Strike Eagle is built for shooters who need fast target acquisition and dependable tracking at varying ranges. Models range from close-quarters 1–6×24 and 1–8×24 LPVOs to mid- and long-range optics like the 3–18×44, 4–24×50, and 5–25×56 (FFP). All variants feature illuminated reticles - such as the AR-BDC3 or EBR-7C - robust one-piece aluminium tubes, waterproof/fogproof sealing, and scratch-resistant lens coatings. The 4–24×50 SFP version offers long-range capability in a relatively lightweight package, complete with a 30 mm tube and EBR-4 MOA reticle. Well-reviewed for its price-to-performance ratio, the Strike Eagle is a popular choice for AR platforms, 3-Gun competitions, hunting, and budget-conscious tactical setups.
Viper (PST Gen II & HD) - Professional Features, Mid-Tier Price
The Viper PST Gen II series is trusted by law enforcement, competition shooters, and dedicated long-range enthusiasts for delivering professional-grade features without a premium price tag. Available in multiple magnification ranges, these scopes feature first focal plane reticles, laser-etched turrets, RZR zero-stop, fiber-optic rotation indicators, XD glass, XR multi-coatings, and ArmorTek lens protection. Sealed and argon-purged, they withstand challenging field conditions while maintaining precise tracking and return-to-zero. Praised as a “great optic for a great price,” the Viper PST Gen II balances clarity, ruggedness, and adjustability for serious shooting on a mid-level budget.
Golden Eagle HD - Built for the Winner’s Circle
The Golden Eagle HD is purpose-engineered for F-Class and Bench Rest competitors who demand extreme precision. Its 15–60× magnification range, ultra-fine 1/8 MOA turret adjustments, and second focal plane reticles (accurate at 40×) give shooters the ability to call shots with surgical precision. The HD optical system incorporates APO index-matched lenses, XR Plus coatings, plasma coating technology, and ArmorTek protection. Despite its capabilities, the Golden Eagle HD remains surprisingly lightweight (around 29.5 oz) in a rugged 30 mm tube. Reviewers highlight its high-definition imagery and remarkable value for a scope in the elite competition category.
Razor HD Gen III - The Vortex Flagship
At the pinnacle of Vortex’s riflescope lineup, the Razor HD Gen III series delivers uncompromising performance for military, law enforcement, and elite competitive shooting. Available in configurations like the ultra-versatile 1–10×24 FFP and the long-range 6–36×56 FFP, these scopes feature premium glass, cutting-edge optical design, and precision mechanics. The 6–36×56 includes a massive 34 mm tube, locking turrets, ArmorTek lens coatings, and advanced reticles in MOA or MRAD. Users consistently praise the Razor HD Gen III for its exceptional clarity, edge-to-edge sharpness, superb light transmission, and rock-solid tracking. Whether on the competition line or in operational environments, this scope represents the ultimate in Vortex engineering.
From the budget-friendly dependability of the Crossfire II to the uncompromising performance of the Razor HD Gen III, Vortex Optics offers a riflescope for virtually every shooter, discipline, and budget. Each series is built with the company’s hallmark durability, backed by fully multi-coated optics, weatherproof construction, and a lifetime warranty that underscores their commitment to long-term performance. Whether you’re dialing for distant steel in competition, glassing for game at first light, or relying on rapid target engagement in the field, Vortex delivers a scope engineered for the task. The breadth of their lineup means there’s no need to compromise - only to choose the balance of features, price, and performance that best matches your shooting goals. READ ARTICLE
MOA vs MRAD: Which Rifle Scope Adjustment Is Right for You?
MOA vs MRAD: Which Rifle Scope Adjustment Is Right for You?
So you're getting into shooting, and you need to decide on whether you need a MOA scope or an MRAD scope. You're not the first person, and you won't be the last that is a little confused in which one to pick.
What is MOA?MOA, or Minute of Angle, is an angular measurement used in rifle scopes to adjust aim for accuracy at varying distances. One MOA equals 1/60th of a degree, which translates to about 1 inch at 100 yards. Most scopes adjust in ¼ MOA clicks, meaning each click shifts the point of impact about 0.25 inches at 100 yards. MOA is used for both turret adjustments and reticle holdovers to compensate for bullet drop or wind. Being that it is an angular measurement, the further the distance, the larger the measurement.
For example;1 MOA at 100yds = 1 inch1 MOA at 200yds = 2 inches1 MOA at 300yds = 3 inchesAnd so on.
What is MRAD?MRAD, short for milliradian, is another angular measurement used in rifle scopes, especially popular in military and long-range precision shooting. Like MOA, it helps shooters adjust for elevation and windage, but it’s based on the metric system. One milliradian = 1/1000 of a radian. This means for the shooter at 100 metres, 1 MRAD = 10 centimetres or 1metre at 1000metres. (or 3.6 inches at 100 yards). Most MRAD scopes adjust in 0.1 MRAD clicks, meaning each click moves the point of impact 1 cm at 100 meters (or ~0.36 inches at 100 yards). Like MOA, being an angular measurement, the further the distance, the larger the measurement.
For example, assuming a 0.1 MRAD adjustment on the scope.1 MRAD at 100m = 10cm or 1cm per click1 MRAD at 200m = 20cm or 2cm per click1 MRAD at 300m = 30cm or 3cm per clickAnd so on.
Figuring out angular measurement and group sizes.
An easy way to figure out the different size of angular measurement at distances is to multiply the measurement (MOA or MRAD) by their respective distance unit (Yards or Metres).For example.
Measurement (MOA) x Distance (Yards) = Size (inches x 100)Then take the Size and divide the answer by 100 and you will get the size in inches.A 2MOA group at 600yards will be 12inches.A 3MOA group at 700Yards will be 21inches.
Measurement (MRAD) x Distance (Metres) = Size (Millimetres)A 0.2MRAD group at 400Metres will be 80mmA 0.3MRAD group at 600Metres will be 180mm
You can also work backwards from a known group size in inches or Millimetres at a known distance to work out the group size.For example:
Size (group in inches) divided by Distance (yards) = MeasurementThen take the measurement provided and multiply it by 100 to receive the Group size in MOA.A 3.2inch group at 300yards will be a 1.066 MOA groupA 7inch group a 900yards will be a 0.77MOA group.
Size (group in millimetres) divided by distance (Metres) = MRAD225mm group at 700Metres will be a 0.32MRAD group650mm group at 500m will be a 1.3MRAD group.
Should I use MOA or MRAD in my rifle scope?This is a question where asking it will somehow make you less sure because everyone has different opinions and different experiences with shooting. But I will try me best to make it easy for you to understand. MOA scopes are generally ¼ MOA (0.25moa) or 1/8 MOA (0.125moa) which are much finer adjustments than the MRAD adjustments (0.1MRAD) adjustment which is equal to approximately 0.4 inches at 100yds. With that finer adjustment, you can tweak the zero on your scope to a level in which the MRAD can't because it will move too much. That finer adjustment also means that at longer distances, means that at 1000yds, a 1/4 moa or 0.25moa click is 2.5 inches (6.35cm) and a 1/8moa or 0.125moa click is 1.25inches (3.2cm). Whereas 0.1 MRAD will be 10cm (roughly 3.94inches). You can get 0.05mrad adjustment scopes which will be 5cm or roughly 1.8 inches at 1000yds but these can be expensive. This finer adjustment could be useful when requiring higher amounts of precision such as an F class shoot. MOA is generally popular as well because lots of shooters have grown up using inches and yards in their everyday life and it is a measurement they understand. A lot of shooting ranges are also still set out in yards and this will make MOA popular because you won't need to convert Metres into Yards in order to make adjustments on an MOA scope.
MRAD scopes are becoming popular now with the introduction of the precision rifle series as well as lots of world militaries moving to a metric adjustment. While it can be said that MRAD is a less fine adjustment, it is also a quicker adjustment as it is easy to calculate ballistics and there are less clicks involved in the adjustments.
For example, I have a pre-done DOPE (Data On Previous Engagement) sheet done for a 6.5 Creedmoor and I will list the clicks required to make these adjustments.
Zero at 100m0.4MRAD at 200m (4 clicks)1.2MRAD at 300m (12clicks)2.1MRAD at 400m (21 clicks)3.2MRAD at 500m (32 clicks)
MRAD makes this simple because the adjustments are in multiples of 10 so all you're doing is moving the decimal place and this math can be done quickly and almost without thinking, which makes it very popular in the fast-paced environment of a precision rifle series championship in which the points are decided on speed in addition to accuracy.
If we look at the same adjustment in MOA and assume a 0.25 MOA adjustment.
0.4MRAD = Approx 1.38MOA or between 5 & 6 clicks1.2MRAD = Approx 4.13MOA or between 16 & 17 clicks2.1MRAD = Approx 7.22MOA or 29 clicks3.2MRAD = 11MOA or 44 clicks
The MRAD adjustments allow for quicker and easier calculation adjustments, which result in a quicker time in making shots.
SummaryThere are no wrong answers when it comes to choosing which unit of adjustment to use when selecting a scope. However, whichever shooting style you are undertaking must be taken into consideration. I prefer MRAD myself as I like long-distance fast-paced shooting, but with that larger adjustment like PRS, but I might be at a disadvantage in an F-Class competition, so someone with a 1/8 moa scope. I hope this answers your questions, but if you still have any, please don't hesitate to contact the team at Optics Warehouse. READ ARTICLE
How to Choose Scope Rings and Mounts: A Complete Guide
How to Choose Scope Rings and Mounts: A Complete Guide
When deciding on an optic, consideration must be given to what mounts you can use to mount that optic. In saying that, best practice is to purchase the optic and then choose the mounts. Otherwise, it's like buying 4 sets of tyres and then buying a car to fit them.
Bases:A Picatinny rail is the most common solution, as it allows for the simplest and most repeatable fitment. Being a universal standard, Picatinny rails make mounting scopes easy, as multiple different manufacturers make rings for this, as well as different heights, allowing for any multitude of combinations for height, tube size and application.
Dovetail rails are still a very common mounting system, but there are multiple different sizes and designs for these and thus not all rails are the same. Care must be taken to ensure that you are buying rings for the correct-sized dovetail that your rifle has on it.
Rings:Selecting rings is the next step you need to take. Once you have the scope and the bases sorted, rings are a reasonably simple task. You need to figure out 4 things:- What base do I need (picatinny or dovetail)- What tube size do I have (1", 30mm, 34mm, etc)- What height do I need- What material do I want (aluminium or steel)
What base do I need?This is the simplest question: do you have a pic rail or a dovetail?Fairly simple question to answer.
What tube size do I have?The answer to this is dependent on the scope you have. There are multiple different tube sizes, and rings must be matched to the tube; otherwise, they will not fit. The easiest way to find this out is to look at the box of the scope or its listing online, and it will tell you. Otherwise, you can check the tube size yourself with a calliper with the tube on either side of the turret housing.
What height do I need?This is the part that most people get stuck on. When considering scope height, it is easiest to work out how much you need to add in the rings. Most pic rail rings will display their height as from the top of the pic rail to the centre of where the tube will sit.For example:
Dovetail works similarly, but from the top of the dovetail to the centre of the ring. This is generally true for both pic rail and dovetail, unless stated otherwise, but for the most part, most manufacturers will follow this.
Working out how much height to add in the ring can be a little bit convoluted, but I'll try to simplify it for you. The easiest way is to get the objective and half it. You will need to use the external diameter of the objective for this. For example, a Vortex Strike Eagle 5-25x56 has an external diameter of 63.5mm. 63.5mm divided by 2 = 31.75mm. This will be correct for dovetail rings, as there is no base to take into account with this. With a picatinny rail, you would subtract the base height from the required amount in the ring. Most picatinny rails are 5-10mm thick. For example, a Vortex Strike Eagle 5-25x56 (63.5mm external) would need at least 31.75mm height in the rings, and the rail would provide at least 5-10mm of height. Requiring at least 26.75-21.75mm in the rings. You would need to get more height than this calculation provides, as this calculation only provides the absolute minimum amount required. You will need to have more height than this to allow the scope to clear the barrel, so it does not become damaged.
What material do I want?The main materials you can get in terms of scope rings are aluminium or steel. Aluminium rings are generally lighter, more available, rust-resistant and durable for most uses. Steel rings are heavier but stronger and able to handle more stress, but can be susceptible to rust.
Summary:When it comes to choosing rings, there are a very large number of options, but once you follow the above steps, the process does get easier. If you still have any questions, please don't hesitate to contact the team at Optics Warehouse. READ ARTICLE
Battle of the Chronographs: Garmin Xero vs. Athlon Rangecraft
Battle of the Chronographs: Garmin Xero vs. Athlon Rangecraft
When Garmin first released the Xero C1 Pro Chronograph, it flew off the shelves. Demand consistently outpaced supply, and for good reason. The Garmin Xero marked a major shift in the industry’s approach to chronographs, delivering high-end performance in a compact, user-friendly design.
Now, Athlon Optics has entered the radar chronograph space with the Rangecraft model. On paper, it does everything the Garmin does. So how do they really stack up?
Specs and Features
Both chronographs share a similar feature set:
- Radar-based tracking
- App support for detailed data analysis
- Compatible with pistols, rifles, air rifles, and archery
Speed detection:
- Garmin: 100 - 5000 fps
- Athlon: 65 - 5000 fps
Included accessories: Mini tripods
So in terms of raw specs, these chronographs are neck and neck. The Athlon’s ability to detect lower velocities is a slight edge on paper, though in practice, few users will benefit from this unless they’re working with subsonic projectiles or very light loads.
User Experience
Using either chronograph is straightforward. Here's a step-by-step comparison of the user flow:
Step 1: Power On
Athlon: Displays a helpful positioning guide on screen; press OK to proceed.
Garmin: Boots straight into the main menu.
Step 2: Start a New Session
Select your activity (e.g., air rifle, archery, etc.).
Optionally, input projectile weight - useful for calculating power in the app.
Garmin: Shows a positioning reminder once you start a new session.
Athlon: Already covered this on startup.
Step 3: Shoot and Record
Once set up, simply take your shots. The chronograph records and calculates speeds in real-time.
Accuracy Test
To compare the two, I ran a simple 13-shot string (my magazine’s full capacity) with an air rifle.
The results? The readings differed by only 3.2 fps on average. In real-world terms, this is negligible and could be attributed to pellet inconsistencies or slight variations in my shooting position. Both devices performed impressively well.
App Performance
Both chronographs sync easily with their respective smartphone apps. I found both stable and responsive, with clear session data and history tracking.
Personal Note: I preferred the layout and interface of the Athlon app, but that’s a subjective call; both are solid.
Final Verdict
If you're choosing between the Garmin Xero and Athlon Rangecraft, you can’t go wrong with either. They’re virtually identical in performance, ease of use, and accuracy. So the choice is a hard one.
That said:
Already in the Garmin ecosystem or want a slightly faster startup? Go Garmin.
Value app interface? Try both and see which you prefer.
In the end, it’s a true coin flip - and whichever side you land on will be the right choice.
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